First, make a garlic puree by wrapping four bulbs in foil and roasting in a 160C fan oven until soft, then squeeze out the pulp. Blend 200ml milk, 100ml double cream, 100g garlic puree, one egg, three yolks and salt, then heat in a pan to 60C. “Pour into a mould, wrap in clingfilm, cook in a 140C bain-marie until just wobbly, then leave to cool and set.”
Tobias looks to Italy and sformato, a soufflé-like mix that she describes as “baked, cheesy custard”. Right now, pumpkin would be the perfect addition. Season the chopped squash, toss in oil and roast in foil (so it doesn’t colour). For a dish that really cossets, serve with lashings of cheese sauce: “A cheat’s version is to heat cream with cheese until it has melted together, but sformato is totally fine on its own or with a green salad.”
When only carbs will do, though, you can’t go far wrong with bread pudding and, for Tobias, savoury inspiration comes from the French peasant dish panade, an “amazing way to use up stale bread”. You can use pretty much whatever ingredients you like, though Tobias favours layering slices of bread, blanched chard, sauteed onions and taleggio, then repeating. She next adds chicken or vegetable stock to cover by two-thirds, then sprinkles with parmesan and bakes until golden. The result? “A pillowy, unctuous, cheesy delight.” And we all need a bit of that right now.